Bouldering Gear

The beauty of bouldering is it’s simple aesthetic. Get from point A to point B, pulling as hard as you can along the way. Climbing so close to the ground opens up the possibility to attempt unfathomable feats of strength and skill, and it reveals unparalleled delights when we discover we’re stronger than we ever imagined. Where else does repeated failure equal progress?

The simplicity of the sport may yield a short gear list, but choosing the right crash pads—and even chalk—can make the difference between failing upward or flailing toward sprained ankles. Here are the crash pads, chalk buckets, brushes, and threads we’re most psyched about.

Choosing A Crash Pad

In general, the more foam beneath our fall, the happier we are to launch for that dead point. Inviting more friends to help carry extra pads is always an option, but sometimes it’s just you and a spotter. For days when we can’t build a gym in the landing zone, we need a select few mats to do the most. Luckily, no crash pad is a bad crash pad, but some are better for certain scenarios than others. So how do we decide which crash pad to bring? Here are a few factors we consider:

1. Size: A larger surface area can be quite efficient for protecting your fall zone, but as pads grow bigger, they also grow heavier and pricier. If we’re on a solo outing to re-climb some classics at our well-trafficked local crag, we bring the largest pad we can comfortably carry. Smaller pads have the advantage of both lighter weight and lower price tag. They’re also convenient for protecting awkwardly small fall zones. If we’re traveling or climbing with our whole crew, a little pad is the ticket.

2. Height: Pad height refers to how thick a pad is, and it grows in importance the higher off the ground you climb. This is because the foam inside the pad compresses when you fall on it, and at high enough velocity you can actually hit the ground through all those layers of foam (known as bottoming out). Thicker pads cost more than thinner ones due to the extra layers of foam, but they’re worth it if you plan to take bigger falls.

3. Foam: Pads are typically labeled as containing two main types of foam: hard and soft. Most pads are made with layers of multiple types of foam. 


• Also known as closed-cell foam, hard foam is stiff, durable, and water resistant. It’s not exactly squishy or comfortable to take a nap on, but it requires more force to compress than softer foams. If you need to protect big falls, choose a pad with a high percentage of hard foam.


• Soft foam, aka open-cell foam, offers plenty of cush. This foam type is less durable and can be susceptible to water damage. Pads with significant portions of soft foam compress plenty, making them ideal for shorter falls—and for that post-lunch lounge session. We especially appreciate some soft foam for sit starts and low moves where our tailbone’s likely to rapidly come in contact with the mat.
  
  

4. Fold Type: Crash pads are typically folded in twos or threes to improve their carry. The type of fold can have an impact on how well a pad protects different types of terrain. Hinge folds are best for flat, even landing zones, but the occasional rock has a way of finding itself between the two slabs of foam. Angled hinge pads help with the errant rock problem. Single slab taco pads excel on rocky, uneven terrain but typically have a permanent bend, and baffled pads are excellent for covering the most obstructive rocks and roots but can be quite heavy.

How We Choose Chalk Buckets & Bags

Choosing a chalk pot is less about technical features and more about a combo of style and nice-to-haves. Our ideal chalk bucket for boulder sessions has a solid velcro or magnetic closure (we have 100% cried over spilled chalk), dedicated slots for brushes large and small, and extra compartments for bouldering essentials like tape, nail clippers, hair ties, and all the other small things that propel us to the top. Other nice-to-haves include soft interior fabrics that won’t snag on healing flappers and outer textiles and colors that mirror our personal expression of climbing excellence.

Looking For Climbing Shoes?

See our top picks + tips on how to choose in our Climbing Shoe Guide.

How We Choose Climbing Brushes

A brush is a brush is a brush, right? If the one you got for free at your gym’s last citizen comp is worn down to the handle, it’s time for an upgrade. We look for brushes with high bristle density, but we don’t hold ourselves to any sort of one-brush rule. Having an arsenal on hand of different sizes and stiffnesses helps ensure we can clean whichever greasy hold is holding us back. Some brushes are made with boar’s hair bristles, so those who avoid animal products will prefer a nylon bristle alternative. A final differentiator separating the trustiest brush from its subpar brethren is ergonomics. We get enough knuckle scrapes from dry firing off crimps—an angled handle that protects our scabs is always appreciated.

Bouldering Apparel

Bouldering offers us a total freedom on the rock, no bolt line or lack of rope slack to hold us back, and our apparel picks embody that same spirit. Technical apparel like puffy jackets, fleece, and down pants all have their place at the crag, especially when send temps mean chilly weather. But when the forecast’s less of a factor, anything goes—as long as we can drop knee in it, of course.

Along with the big-name brands—like Patagonia and Black Diamond, both of which we can thank legendary climber Yvon Chouinard for—here are a few brands we turn to when adding pieces to our boulder repertoire. 


• Gramicci: This heritage brand was born and raised around Yosemite’s Camp 4. If you’re looking for oversized carpenter pants with the flexibility of a running tight, this is the brand for you.


• prAna: This brand has deep ties with climbing (and Chris Sharma!), and in addition to excellent technical styles for climbing they recently revamped a heritage collection, bringing back designs from the ’90s for a new generation of senders.


• La Sportiva: Not just a shoe brand... La Sportiva’s climbing apparel is known for eye catching color combos, smart details (like an anti-bunch dart behind the knee), and technical fabrics to keep you warm or cool.


• Topo Designs: Need a pant that literally has boulder in the name? Topo’s got you. We appreciate this Denver-based brand’s use of organic textiles and 


• Wondery: Lady crushers, this by women, for women brand is for you. Wondery crafts clothing for climbing, hiking, van lifing, and however you spend time out there.


• Backcountry: The Tahoe 2 Sun Hoodie and Destination collection get our boulderers’ seal of approval for the perfect blend of comfort and simplicity. 


• Stoic: Rooted in retro, Stoic has plenty of offerings that thrive in that classic climber’s aesthetic.


• KAVU: This brand’s ethos is all about fun—finding it wherever you get it outside and expressing it through your apparel. That makes their quirky options right at home among our bouldering crew.